बचपन, बारिश, और सियार का ब्याह

… क्यूंकि आज यूँ ही मेरा दिल फिर ऐसी बारिश के लिए बेचैन हो गया।

आजकल मेरे बचपन के शहर धनबाद में फिर वैसी ही बारिश हो रही है जैसे सियार का ब्याह हो रहा हो। हाँ, आपने ठीक पढ़ा। हमने तो अपने बचपन में ये खूब सुना था। दादी कहा करती थी – जब धूप में बारिश होती थी तो कहीं दूर जंगल में सियार का ब्याह हो रहा होता है।या यह समझ लीजिये, जब सूरज बादलों के बीच से कहीं झाँक रहा हो और खिली धूप में बस थोडी देर के लिए जोर दार बारिश हो जाये तो उसे सियार का ब्याह होना कहते है।

A view of the rainbow from the terrace of my home in Dhanbad. Photo Credit: Shruti

सिर्फ दादी ही नहीं, मैंने कई लोगों को यही कहते सुना है।और उसके बाद इन्द्रधनुष भी दिखता था। मानो जैसे दुल्हन के लिए बहुभात का आयोजन प्रकृति ने स्वयं ही कर दिया हो। उन दिनों ऐसे मंज़र से ज्यादा खूबसूरत और कुछ नहीं हुआ करता था। पल छीन में बरसात, बादल, धूप, सूरज और इन्द्रधनुष सब देख कर सारी इंद्रियां तृप्त और मन प्रसन्न हो जाया करता था।


फिर कभी-कभार जब हम चारों बहनों को छत पर एक साथ आसमान में दो इंद्रधनुष दिख जाया करता था तो ऐसा लगता है कि जैसे हमें कुबेर का खज़ाना मिल गया हो। आप सोच रहे होंगे ऐसा भला क्यों ? क्यूंकि हमनें कभी किसी को यूँ कहते सुना था – अगर एक साथ दो इंद्रधनुष दिख जाये तो तुरंत किसी कपड़े के टुकड़े में गांठ बांध कर कामना करने से वो कामना पूरी हो जाती है। ऐसा कर के हम चारों बहनों ने न जाने घर की कितनी ही चुन्नियों और रूमालों के कोनों में गांठ बाँधा होगा।अब यह तो मेरी माँ ही बता सकती है क्यूंकि वह आज तक इन गांठों का रहस्य नहीं समझ पायीं। और न हम चारों को यह याद है कि गांठ बांध कर हमारी कितनी मनोकामनाएं अब तक पूरी हुई हैं।

A rainbow hanging atop the hills as seen from my home in Dhanbad. Picture credit: Shruti

सियार का ब्याह क्यूँ कहा जाता था ये आज तक मालूम नहीं कर पाए – न हम और और न कोई और। ऐसा था हमारा बचपन और उसकी बारिशें।

(बारिशों के पानी, बचपन की यादों और हज़ारों अधूरी ख़्वाहिशों को सप्रेम समर्पित। क्यूंकि यह तीनों ही असंख्येय, अविस्मरणीय और अमूर्त हैं। Pictures provided by my sister Shruti from her recent Dhanbad trip; written by Shillpi | शिल्पी)

Kalki Subramaniam: A metaphor for eternity

The article was carried in The Free Press Journal, Mumbai, in its edition dated August 29, 2021. https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/you-dont-need-bravery-to-live-as-a-transwoman-you-just-need-to-respect-and-love-yourself-says-author-and-transgender-activist-kalki-subramaniam

Footloose in the stunning countryside

On her way to Tuscany, Upasna Prasad stopped by every single town. So come tag along as she takes you on a memorable road trip around Italy.

There are many good road trips all over the world, but driving through Tuscany, a region in central Italy, is an altogether another level of experience. Known for its dessert wine Vin Santo, made from a variety of region’s grapes, the countryside is a perfect picture book where green hills are dotted with slender cypress trees standing in line, sunflower fields and vineyards at every corner. On the way, every single town is worth stopping by.
It is imperative to feel safe and comfortable while driving, so we hired a tourist Volvo bus in accordance with our budget from Firenze (Florence city, capital of Tuscany) early morning 7 am in the summer month of June two years ago.
The lush green countryside and rolling hills were a sight to behold, needless to say, the Tuscan sun beaming on our faces and the breeze seething through our hair. Many stupendous little villages also dotted the region.
The itinerary detailed here are the places I had visited, encompassing every beautiful village and hilltop Tuscany had to offer. Buon Viaggio!

Montalcino

We had started our journey from the gorgeous city of Florence, known for its art and culture. After driving around for a little over two hours, our first stop was Montalcino, a beautiful historical town perched on a hilltop in Tuscany. If you love wine, this is a special place to be as wine knowledge, passion, and quality are exceptional. Even if you don’t drink, the sheer pride and interest in wine-making will make you love this town. Though you reach this town by car/bus, you discover this place on foot.
Known for the production of delicious wine, the famous Rosso and Brunelleschi di Montalcino, there were stunning views over the surrounding countryside and wonderful food and wine to give the perfect company.

Pienza

On our way to Pienza countryside, we stopped at San Quirico d’Orcia to take pictures of the beautiful, scenic countryside. Pienza is Tuscany’s ‘Ideal Town’ perched atop a beautiful hill in scenic Val d’ Orcia, with incredible history.

Here the architecture blended beautifully into the landscape, and there were pretty alleys and excellent food too. Though we met with occasional rains here, we could completely immerse ourselves in this remarkable town.

Montepulciano

It is another stunning Tuscan town famous for its views and wine. The famous wine produced here is Vino nobili di Montepulciano, and the town also houses a historical town centre with pleasant streets, beautiful piazzas, churches and breathtaking viewing terraces over the countryside. The street was long, meandering and delightful; dotted with cafes, restaurants, shops, local souvenirs, local textile and kitchenware. Excellent wine and olive oil are also produced here.
We continued with our Tuscan countryside trip on the second day from Florence.

Siena

After driving for an hour and 10 minutes, we reached Siena at 10 in the morning. It is a city famous for its Palio (horse race) that takes place twice a year and its characteristic narrow streets flanked by brick buildings. The traditional Sienese dishes include Crostini neri, toasted bread with liver; Pappardelle con leprechaun, ribbon shaped pasta with a sauce made with hare; Pici, long thick spaghetti with a rich sauce and ribolita.

San Gimignano

The world’s best gelato and ice cream are served at Gelateria Dondoli, an award-winning gelateria in San Gimignano. That is the reason we stopped here. There were countless astounding and delicious gelatos here, and a long queue waited outside to get their delicious pick. We had to wait for an hour, but it was worth the wait. San Gimignano and its surroundings are well worth visiting to enjoy historical monuments and taste great wines. There are a dozen tower houses, which form a beautiful skyline with its hilltop setting and encircling walls.

Pisa

Our last destination was the city of Pisa, best known for its iconic Leaning Tower, a World Heritage Site. It was a crowded place full of tourists. I could see many Indians also here. It took almost two centuries to complete the Leaning Tower. The tilting towards the north started with the completion of the second floor because of the bad soil underneath it. Pisa is a Greek word meaning “marshy sands”. The terrain in this area is mainly made of clay, and for this reason, it is not strong enough to sustain such a tall construction. The Bell Tower of Romanesque rises next to it in the Piazza dei Miracoli.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa.

That was the end of our Tuscany countryside trip covered in two days. By the end of it, I was exhausted. Black poplar trees were found in the countryside on our way back to Florence. The peculiarity of these trees is that oyster mushrooms grow here, pushing through the bark of trees after a cold rain. Finally, we were back in Florence. This road trip was not so much about the destination, but it was about the journey in between.
All I can say is breathe deep, take your time and soak in the beauty of Tuscany!

(All pics courtesy Upasna Prasad)

Bond beautiful

The article was carried in The Free Press Journal, Mumbai, in its Raksha Bandhan special edition. https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/raksha-bandhan-2021-urban-indians-share-the-significance-of-festival-and-show-how-rakhi-is-not-only-about-cherishing-brother-sister-relationship

A city frozen in time

Upasna Prasad takes us on a virtual trip to the ruined ancient Roman city, Pompeii, in Italy.

Pompeii is a city in Southern Italy’s Napoli region where history has its testimonials preserved till today. Two years back, while in Rome with my family, we went for a short and sweet day trip to Pompeii.
The easiest way to get to Pompeii from Rome is by train, which is only about an hour and a half each way. From Rome’s Termini Station, we took the high-speed train to Naples’ Napoli Centrale Station. I must add here that it is always better to purchase tickets in advance. From Naples, we hired a taxi to take us to Pompeii en route to Sorrento.
The sleeping Mount Vesuvius overlooks this ancient city. The entire city was destroyed by the deadly volcanic explosions of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Nearly 1000 years later, in the 18th century, this city was discovered by archaeologists.
It is a city frozen in time as it was entirely buried under 12 metres of ash and lava, preserving it for centuries to come. The weather being hot and sultry, as we walked down the cobbled streets and lanes, we got the impression that everyone had been doing their chores, having the slightest idea that their last acts would provide a window to ancient life for the later generations.
Everything has been protected from the normal decay of time, including Pompeii’s paintings, furniture and tools of everyday life. The most significant discovery is human plaster casts – the ghostly impressions in the ash left by the city residents who were buried alive. It was an eerie experience to come across the plaster casts of human bodies, animals and plants. A large of Pompeii still remains unexcavated, and work is going on to dig out the remains.
Pompeii has two theatres – the Teatro Grande, the larger of the two can seat 5000 spectators. It is still used for summer performances.
We spent around three hours in this creepy yet fascinating city before heading back to Rome. Though the sight of the people frozen in their final moments trembled me, but it is a must-visit for history buffs.

(All the pictures in the slideshow are by Upasna Prasad)

Lost in Paradise

Everything in the Kew Gardens is lovely, says Upasna Prasad.

It was London calling, and I was there too with my family in tow in the summer of 2018. One bright sunny morning, five of us decided to take a full-day tour of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, (commonly known as Kew Gardens). Located in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames in southwest London, it borders the river Thames between Richmond in the south, with Brentford to the north. This UNESCO World Heritage site officially opened to the public in 1840.
For the best experience, one would want to visit on a day when it is not raining. Whatever be the season, there is always something special to see at the Royal Botanic Gardens, with surprises at every turn. We were lucky as there was plenty of sunshine, making our day most enjoyable. Plants being voiceless, we had plenty of time to soak it all in.
We arrived there at around 11 am and the Gardens closed by 5 pm, so we couldn’t manage to see everything, but we did stop at various picturesque spots to take pictures; this being the largest and most diverse garden in the world!
We boarded the land train that provides a hop-on, hop-off service with seven stops around the gardens. The ride helped us maximise our sightseeing as much as possible, as we were not keen on the full trek on foot. We were blown away by the breathtaking view of nature, and the hours spent at the Kew Gardens slipped by too soon.
We revelled in the fresh air and open space. It was overwhelmingly peaceful for all of us. Our first stop was the iconic Victorian Palm House with a rainforest environment. The plants were dedicated to the world’s tropical regions. The Victorian Glasshouse is impressive; we ascended a rustic spiral staircase to view everything from above.
We were in for a surprise as we continued walking to the Temperate House. There were vast variations of plants from all around the globe that needed 10 degrees Celsius or above to survive.
Outside the Palm House were beautifully manicured roses. We could inhale the scent of scores of roses in this stunning Rose Garden. The scent lingered along the mowed walkways between the beds.
We also experienced the lustrous beauty of a perfectly trimmed Grass Garden with feathery seed heads catching the light of the low sun with leaves turning shades of yellow and bronze.
It was a good day outing, amongst nature and away from the grime of the city. We purchased tickets at the Victoria Gate and hired a Kew Explorer Tour, which gave us a better understanding of the gardens.
A lot of it remained unexplored, and we wish to visit Kew Gardens once more to cover the rest of the green and serene spot in London. If in London, do plan a trip to Kew.

(All photos of the slideshow by Upasna Prasad)

Handloom tales

The article was carried in The Free Press Journal in its edition dated August 8, 2021. https://www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/handloom-tales-keeping-the-traditional-weaves-alive-and-artisans-aloft-amid-the-pandemic

Hands that rock the loom also hold the flame of hope burning bright for the handloom sector. Coupled with interventions by government and entities working in this field, artisans both young and old, can go a long way in making my handloom, my pride.