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Dhoti Daredevils

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Celebrating the Warriors of India’s Traditional Attire

In a country where fashion trends come and go, a timeless and iconic garment continues to grace the Indian landscape with its elegance and cultural significance – the dhoti. This versatile and traditional attire has been integral to Indian men’s wardrobe for centuries. While modern fashion trends may have introduced new styles, the Dhoti Daredevils of India proudly wear this classic garment, embodying a spirit of tradition and fearlessness. 

India has diverse cultures and traditions; its traditional attire reflects this rich tapestry. The dhoti is essentially a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, typically measuring around 4.5 meters (15 ft) in length. It is draped around the waist and legs and then knotted at the waist. This elegant garment reflects the cultural diversity and regional variations found within the Indian subcontinent. The dhoti holds a special place among men’s many traditional garments; it holds significant prominence in almost all states. In the northern parts of Gujarat and southern parts of Rajasthan, the dhoti, known as “Pancha,” is often paired with a short kurta called “kediya.” The most common combination is dhoti and kurta, known as “dhoti kurta.” In Bengal, the kurta is called “panjabi,” and the ensemble is known as “dhuti panjabi.” In Tamil Nadu, it is worn with a “sattai” or shirt, while in Andhra Pradesh, it is paired with a “chokka” and in Kerala as “jubba.” Assam embraces the kurta as “panjabi,” and the combination is called “suriya panjabi.” Dhoti, as it is called in the Hindi belt, Mundu in Kerala and Veshti in Tamil Nadu, is a traditional attire, especially in the country’s southern parts.

Preserving Tradition:

The dhoti is more than just a piece of clothing; it represents a deep-rooted cultural heritage that connects the past with the present. Dhoti daredevils are the torchbearers of this ancient tradition, donning the attire on various occasions, from religious ceremonies and weddings to festive celebrations and cultural events. Their unwavering dedication to preserving this aspect of Indian culture keeps the flame of tradition alive and burning brightly.

Reviving the Style:

Despite being steeped in tradition, the dhoti is not immune to the winds of change. Over time, its popularity has fluctuated, and younger generations have sometimes veered towards more Westernized fashion. However, the dhoti daredevils play a pivotal role in reviving this traditional style, embracing it with pride and incorporating it into contemporary fashion with a touch of modern flair. By doing so, they inspire others to appreciate the elegance and versatility of this timeless garment.

Dhoti as a Symbol of Fearlessness:

Wearing a dhoti requires a certain level of skill and confidence. The dhoti daredevils exhibit fearlessness as they gracefully carry themselves in this attire, navigating their way through various social and cultural settings with poise and charm. Their bold choice to wear dhotis challenges stereotypes and showcases that traditional attire can be as powerful and stylish as any modern fashion statement.

Breaking Gender Norms:

While the dhoti has predominantly been associated with men’s fashion, the dhoti daredevils are breaking gender norms by encouraging women to embrace this garment as well. With the rise of gender-inclusive fashion, women are increasingly choosing to wear dhotis, celebrating their heritage and expressing empowerment. 

Cultural Ambassadors:

The Dhoti Daredevils are cultural ambassadors, not just within India but also on the global stage. Their fearless display of traditional attire showcases the rich diversity of Indian culture to the world, drawing admiration and respect from different corners of the globe. They preserve the country’s unique identity and heritage by embracing their roots. 

The dhoti’s cultural significance lies in its deep-rooted connection to traditions, customs, and regional identities. It represents the rich heritage and diverse cultural tapestry of the Indian subcontinent. Wearing the dhoti is not just a fashion statement but an expression of respect, identity, and an appreciation for the customs and rituals associated with the garment. 

The Dhoti Daredevils of India are remarkable men who wear their traditional attire with immense pride. They are the torchbearers of a rich cultural heritage, keeping the flame of tradition alive in a world of ever-changing fashion trends. Through their bold fashion choices, they inspire others to appreciate and embrace the elegance of the dhoti while breaking stereotypes and challenging gender norms. As cultural ambassadors, they spotlight India’s diverse heritage and showcase the power of tradition in the modern world. The Dhoti Daredevils remind us all of the significance of preserving our cultural roots and celebrating the essence of who we are. 

Rajasthan:

The Rajasthani dhoti, also known as the “Safa Dhoti,” reflects the royal heritage and grandeur of the region. Made from luxurious fabrics like silk or cotton, the dhoti features exquisite hand-block prints, intricate embroidery, and ornate borders. The colours are vibrant and eye-catching, ranging from rich reds and royal blues to earthy browns and mustard yellows. The Rajasthani dhoti is often paired with a matching bandhani (tie and dye) or colourful turban, reflecting the traditional attire of Rajput warriors. This ensemble is commonly worn during festive occasions, weddings, and cultural celebrations, symbolizing grace, valour, and a deep connection to Rajasthan’s rich history.

Gujarat:

The Gujarati dhoti, popularly known as the “Patola Dhoti,” is a testament to Gujarat’s weavers’ exceptional craftsmanship and artistic skills. Patola silk, renowned for its intricate double ikat patterns, is the hallmark of the Gujarati dhoti. The weaving process is meticulous, involving tying and dyeing the warp and weft threads separately before carefully weaving them together. The result is a mesmerizing display of geometric designs, vibrant colors, and intricate motifs. The Gujarati dhoti is often paired with an embellished bandhgala jacket or kurta, creating a stunning ensemble for weddings, festivals, and cultural events. It represents the rich textile heritage of Gujarat and reflects the wearer’s refined taste and appreciation for artistic excellence. 

Maharashtra:

Maharashtrian dhotis, known as “Dhotar” in Marathi, are a traditional attire worn by men in the Indian state of Maharashtra. The dhoti is a rectangular piece of cloth that is typically wrapped around the waist and legs. Maharashtrian dhotis have a distinct style and are often accompanied by a unique way of draping, each with its own significance and cultural variations. The choice of style often depends on the occasion, personal preference, and regional customs. 

Why do temples down south insist men wear a Dhoti before entering its premises?It is a sign of reverence, respect, and a sense of purity. Also, some temples insist on removing the shirt, and the person has to enter the temple bare-chested. Also, the belief is that the temple has a lot of energy within, which can be imbibed if we are bare-chested. Historically, only the wealthy and well-to-do scholars used to wear an upper-body vest and the lower class used to be bare-chested. Wearing a shirt was considered ostentatious and a sign of showing off one’s wealth. But in the presence of God, there should not be any opulent show of wealth; hence, temples asked the male devotees to remove shirts. This is practised to this day in most of the temples in Kerala. While in some temples, you are permitted to wear the shirt in the outer perimeter within the temple walls, you will have to remove the shirt if you have to enter the inner sanctum.  In some temples, you must remove the shirt even if you have to enter the main gate of the temple, e.g. The Shree Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram requires male devotees to remove their shirts and compulsorily wear dhotis even to enter the main gate.
~ M. Subbamani, a native of Tamil Nadu

Rural Style for The Urban Mile

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Fashion with a difference
Usha Silai, the handcrafted ensemble of thirty-six exquisite pieces blending the old stitching skills with modern design sensibilities, was a powerful narrative of empowerment and inclusivity in fashion on the Sustainable Fashion Day on February 1, 2018, at the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018 in Mumbai. The debut of Usha Silai on the ramp marked the launch of the sustainable fashion label showcasing the work of rural women from Rajasthan, Bengal, Gujarat and Puducherry, trained through Usha International Limited’s community-based programme, Usha Silai School, and mentored by four renowned designers – Amit Vijaya and Richard Pandav, Sayantan Sarkar, Soham Dave and Sreejith Jeevan. The initiative, #ReimagineFashion, held in collaboration with IMG Reliance aims to empower women in rural areas with skills and resources to create clothes and accessories that can be retailed in the urban fashion market.
Delighted with the debut of Usha Silai label, Dr Priya Somaiya, Executive Director, Usha Social Services, says, “The brand has created a platform that has the power to impact and change the lives of many. Making use of local stitching skills and modern techniques, we will create an umbrella that caters to sustainable fashion in a modern language.” The collection had each cluster showcasing nine outfits, embracing grass root design intervention and highlighting the essence of the region. The designers who were on board for the project were thrilled at their association, admiring women for their strength and how a little push from them could help them soar high above in the sky. “In today’s context when #Whomademyclothes is more relevant than ever, the Usha Silai Project is a gem of an example that uses the power of design and fashion to make a difference. It illustrates so beautifully how fashion can be a tool to empower, co-create and coexist in spite of the maker and wearer being in two different contexts. Just like the villages feed the cities, the villages can also dress the cities,” says Jeevan. The designers used different elements and inspirations expressing their individualism in the ensemble, from architecture to attire, from women to machine, but all bearing the credits of the 30 rural women workers from different states who were a part of this project.
Dave, who worked with rural women in Dholka, Gujarat, named his collection The Black Machine. Drawing inspiration from Usha’s black sewing machine, from the basic colour, story to minute details, the collection was basic and functional as the machine itself, and the focus was on creating detailed surfaces on the black lock stitch machine. “The black paddled machine works on eternal human energy and not electricity. That’s the most sustainable way to make a garment. Like the paddled machine, I have also tried to incorporate sustainable design and fabrics to the collection,” he says about his collection, adding that it was a delightful and humbling experience to work with women from the Silai School.
On the other hand, Sarkar’s collection The Girl from the Pages of the Diary with rural women of 24 Parganas, West Bengal, was an experimental amalgamation of the contradiction of the Indian and Western silhouettes. Accentuating the basic Indian silhouettes and teaming it with western influences saw the designer use sarees over pants or skirts with summer trenches and shirts or kurtas with skirts and jackets. Sarkar used floral motif prints, embroidery and texture created on the fabric base of khadi, jamdani and motif weave, and for the colour palette, he stuck to dull pastels in shades of ice blue, pale brown, peach, lemon, orange and light olive. Sarkar held women whom he mentored in high regards. “Usha Silai label will be one of the greatest achievements in my life; it gave me the chance to be a part of a program that has given these talented women the respect which they always deserved, in a society where they are the least respected. From being regular housewives to creating a line of collection for the runway, they have done it all and will always do it because women are the strongest being,” says Sarkar.
The rural women from Usha’s Silai School in Kaladhera in Rajasthan were mentored by Vijaya and Pandav whose collection Rani’sthan was an ode to the queen in every woman through the study and deconstruction of the royal Rajasthani woman’s costume – The Poshak. Calling it a small contribution towards sustainable fashion, the duo says, “We drew inspiration from the traditional Poshak and deconstructed the look to present a collection of chic separates – shirts and tunics that evolve from the kurti, blousons and tops that spring from the kanchli, skirts and dresses that evolve from the lehenga, scarves, etc. Playing with the nature of contrasts, we offer fluidity with rigidity, rawness with refinement, constriction with the flow. The shape draws reference from the traditional look but has been updated to make it relevant for the queens of today.”
Jeevan, who mentored women in Puducherry that was once a window to the world, called his collection, Window to the World. “Every window has a story to tell about an old French colony, about the people who lived in them, about their favourite tree that enveloped it and about the way they saw me through them. There were so many stories that one simple window had to say and that inspired me to say the story of this collection made by ten different women, each one a window bringing in light to their lives. And I’m looking to find out their story through the window that is their work – Silai. And they are also, like the people inside the houses, looking at me to see what I can add,” quips Jeevan. Using this narrative, he connected the technique to the idea, the place and sewing techniques, and used various aspects of windows in Pondicherry to create garments for the collection.
And the label has created a fashion brand with a difference as Jaspreet Chandok, Head of Fashion, IMG Reliance, stated in the parting, “#ReimagineFashion establishes the principle that for Indian fashion to be forward, it needs to think local and leverage human potential at the grass root level for the development of a sustainable livelihood.”
The collections created by these four designers for ‘Usha Silai’ label will be launched in April 2018 with their exclusive retail partner Ogaan at their flagship store in Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi.